Catherine M Gray

2009-02-12T18:12:00.006Z

It feels very cold, and very grey

But it is very good to be home!

2009-02-12T18:01:00.005Z

We'll pretend that this was my only luggage...

Erin and Obama in Washington DC

The view from the back room of mum and dad's house

(I was really lucky to make it home so easily on Monday)

So... that's it, and I'm home!

2009-01-31T17:41:00.006Z

On Friday night Carla threw us a goodbye party at the Taller.

We had drinks and a gorgeous spread including Tamales, made by Lorena and Aurelia.

We bought Carla the Camouflage exhibition book, and Couture Sewing Techniques, of course!

This is Senora Guille, long-suffering and wonderful machinist.

She made us each a beautiful bag as a goodbye gift.

Roderigo, Lorena's cousin, Pau, Senora and Jasmine

Christian and Aurelia

Lorena

Aurelia

2009-01-31T17:36:00.000Z

Colour sampling finally complete on Friday morning...

2009-01-31T17:16:00.003Z

A farewell dinner at mine with the girls from the Taller on Thursday night.

We looked as if we were shooting an ad campaign for 'Boing' juice drinks.

We ate Tacos filled with Pau's delicious chicken tinga, and Katy's 'Grandma's Guacamole', roasted veg, Oaxaca cheese, salad, cream and toms.

Charlotte made crepes with sugar, lime and cream.

And Katy made us a delicious blackberry cake.

2009-01-31T17:04:00.002Z

A cup of steaming sweetcorn flavored with salt, mayo, lime and cheese.

Trying Esquites had to be well timed: the potential for stomach-related disaster is always going to be considerable when you put 'sweetcorn' and 'street food' in the same sentence. (So we decided that I should try them on Thursday - based on the idea that if I got ill it would be ok because all my work at the studio is finished, and I'd have time to recover before the flight home on Sunday morning.)

Katy drove us to the stand outside the Poliforum, and we pulled up next to the stall as if it were a Mexican drive-thru.

Delicious, and very much worth the wait!

2009-01-30T01:05:00.009Z

We were encountering lots of frustrating problems in the factory, and of course it was agreed that in order to find the solution there was only one logical strategy...

we went for tacos.

Mmm... I ate Campechanos de bistek, longaniza y chicharon

Beef, sausage y fried pig-skin! Yum!

The famous El Villamelon, by the Plaza de Toros near my flat- it is where all the bull-fight fans hang-out before and after the fight.

I think that 'El Villamelon' could translate as something like 'the fair weather fan'.

The colour-tech guys explained to me that a Villamelon is someone who only turns up for the big fights, always arrives late (even by Mexican standards), doesn't know where the toilets are, and spends the entire fight chatting to his friends about how things are going at work.

2009-01-28T22:37:00.014Z

Top 5 day-to-day things about DF: Part 2

1. The street food!

Everyday I stop at the stall at the corner of Merida and Puebla to get food.

I love Tlacoyos con flor de calabaza, quesadillas de queso, pambazo, and gorditas de chicharron.

2. MasCafe:

I am crazy about MasCafe - the little street cafe run by Martin on Merida (close to Puebla)

He does the best coffee in the entire world.

3. This tree: 'jacaranda' every time I see it the purple blossom surprises me.

4. The 'Brooks Building' on Insurgentes:

When I first heard that I was coming to DF the Brooks Boys told me about the roof gardens that are all over the city to improve the air quality.

In my head I imagined that it was going to look exactly like this building that I see everyday on Avenida Insurgentes.

Every time that I look up and see it, I am reminded of how little I knew about this amazing place, and how lucky I am to have had the opportunity to get to know it so well.

5. The light on painted houses:

You can't help but be inspired

2009-01-25T00:47:00.012Z

Then we went to the Museum of Anthropology to see the Flying Men

Look how high up they go...

2009-01-25T00:45:00.003Z

On Sunday Erin and I went to Las Flautas cafe on the corner of Tonala and Zacatecas for... flautas!

Mmm... agua de Jamaica y Guayaba

Flautas with beans, chicken and potato.

2009-01-25T00:32:00.003Z

And then to the Museo de la Estampa, next door.

And these pieces by Carlos Merida.

After the museum I walked in the blazing sunshine through the markets of the Alameda Central, and then took the metro to the artisan market at Balderas. Then I headed back on the Metrobus and walked from Poliforum to the flat.

2009-01-24T23:30:00.012Z

My last weekend in Mexico!

Today I went to the Museo Franz Mayer on Avenida Hidalgo.

Its right opposite the Parque Alameda Central.

This is the beautiful central courtyard.

At the moment there is an exhibition hanging outside- such a great setting.

The view from the cafe.

Its an awful photo, but such a stunning piece that I had to include it anyway!

La conquista de Mexico y vista de la cuidad de Mexico.

I had been told that Franz Mayer had a huge collection of 'stuff' and that he collected in categories - so he had loads of keys, loads of wardrobes, loads of trunks. It took them ages to organise his collection because it was just piled up in the spare rooms of his house. I imagined that the museum would be filled with many examples of the same things organised in groups - which is true - but I never imagined how exquisite the pieces in each collection would be.

Ignacio Zulolaga y Zabaleta (Eibar, 1870 - Madrid, 1945) Francisco y su mujer.

2009-01-23T04:20:00.002Z

Plenty of printing progress this week!

Sampling underway...

Colour swatches

2009-01-23T03:02:00.010Z

Merced Metro... more on the architect later.

Piles of folded banana leaves at the Merced.

I watched the men stripping the leaves with knives, and folding them to sell.

So many stalls selling cactus: I can't get used to it!

Rows of vendors shaving the thorns off, before arranging them in baskets/piles.

Look at the cactus tower behind this vendor.

The market is enormous, and it sells everything imaginable.

It was wonderful to walk through all the different stalls: I loved the industrial cookery equipment - and the meat, fruit, veg, baskets and bags, plastic tupperware - everything!

2009-01-19T03:23:00.011Z

On Sunday I went to the cantina Agustin, near to the Mercado de la Merced.

Cantinas used to be a place for the men to go - I wonder if they were the working mens clubs of Mexico?

Women were first allowed into cantinas in 1983.

In the photo above you can see a trough in front of the bar - in the old days this was the urinal - right there in the middle of the cantina.

On the legs of the tables are little shelves where you can put your drinks, leaving the table-top free for games.

AND... I was allowed to go into the kitchen to meet the cooks, and take photos of the food being prepared!

That's mole in the big pan.

And these are the quesadillas with cheese inside that I took home with me... delicious.

2009-01-18T14:14:00.006Z

On Sunday we had the Knitting Club Winter Warmer Party.

Pau taught Charlotte and I how to make Stuffed Chili Peppers.

And, although it is a secret recipe , she was blinded by the bright lights of fame and let me put it on my blog - so here's the step-by-step...

First chop the carrots, toms, mushroom and onion.

Then try not to mentally list the hazards involved in putting the chili peppers over the hob, to flame the skins so that we can remove them.

Heat the veg on the hob with a little olive oil, and then mix it together with tuna and cream.

Sweat the Chili's in a bag.

Add herbs and spices to the mixture...

Wash out the Chili's and remove seeds and skin.

Even Pau was choking on the chili fumes...

And put the mixture inside the chili peppers.

READY! Delicious and very, very hot!

2009-01-18T14:12:00.001Z

The printing process is getting underway... can't wait to see the results!

2009-01-18T14:10:00.002Z

As part of my continuing education in Mexican Cuisine, Pau bought me Jicama and Melon from the street stall near MasCafe.

Jicama itself is full of water and people say that it doesn't have any flavor, but I think that it tastes like uncooked MangeTout.

The chile sauce is mixed with Salt and Lemon. Pau also prepared the following speech for me to put on my blog:

'Jicama con Sandia: Las cortan en cuadritos, luego las preparan con chile liquido, sal y limon. Es lo mas delicioso en el mundo. Bueno, tal vez para los Mexicanos'

2009-01-18T02:31:00.008Z

In the afternoon we went to Xochimilco Ecological Park at Cuemanco.

The oldest man in Mexico was punting our Trajinera, and I suspect that it is not the first time he has got a boat stuck on a sand bank... for twenty minutes.

Having lost his battle against the light breeze, he jumped in the water to push us free...

Ace birdwatching though...

2009-01-18T01:13:00.006Z

I've been looking forward to taking Mum and Dad to Frida Kahlo's Blue House ever since they arranged their trip.

Its where Frida Kahlo was born, and spent most of her life.

After the Blue House we went to the Museo Casa Estudio Diego Rivera y Frida Kahlo.

This is a picture of Diego's room.

Frida Kahlo's bathroom!

Diego had one half, and Frida the other: the two halves are connected by a bridge.

2009-01-17T23:54:00.003Z

6th January:

Happy Birthday Miss Lewis! We had a birthday breakfast for Erin at the Taller.

Erin took her blowing out the candles photo very seriously.

It was also the Day of the Kings - the wise men - (dia de reyes) so we ate Rosca de Reyes - the traditional cake.

2009-01-17T03:35:00.018Z

Sunday 4th January:

The birthday girl started her day talking to Hel and Liz on Skype.

Speaking into a computer takes a bit of getting used to...

We had the library room to ourselves in Casa Lamm for a birthday breakfast.

Cabbies here in DF are not renowned for their street knowledge or their driving.

(We started to feel nervous when the Taxi driver read his map with a magnifying glass.)

He was very put out that I couldn't contribute to the navigation, and checked the map several times before asking directions from a passerby.

But eventually... we arrived at the San Angel Inn.

Lynne and Adrian recommended the restaurant to Dad: its an old Carmelite monastery.

Its has a beautiful outside area that remained calm even as the tables filled up.

And wonderful gardens within the grounds.

Ah, the inevitable menu confusion! After I accidently ordered everyone meat tacos, rather than just for me, and everyone also ate their own starters, there was almost no room for the main course... it was delicious, though.

Back in the hotel for birthday cake...

Jim headed off to the airport homeward bound, and Mum, Dad and I went to the Ballet Folklorico de Mexico at the Museum of Anthropology.

It was glorious, uplifting, dynamic traditional dancing and music - I'm so pleased we had the chance to see it together.

Happy Birthday Mo Gray xxx

2009-01-17T02:44:00.007Z

Mum and Dad arrived on Friday night for the first leg of their Mexican Adventure!

(I Finally got the chance to get Dad back for all those awful Arrivals photos he has taken of us.)

On Saturday morning we went to the botanical gardens at Chapultepec Park.

Inside the glass houses: not quite as impressive as Toluca, but very beautiful!

All that glorious Mexican food doesn't beat:

...a Christmas cake picnic in Chapultepec Park!

We sat and watched a group learning indigenous dances - very peaceful.

2009-01-02T18:18:00.002Z

New Years Day 2009 - Jim and I spent the day walking around the Bosque de Chapultapec.

It felt like everyone in Mexico City was there- having picnics, setting up hammocks between the trees, playing football and volleyball.

Today was one of those blissful, sun-drenched days... a perfect way to start 2009.

2009-01-01T17:52:00.001Z

After getting back from Toluca, it was time for...

New Years Eve!

Jim and I ate pear, brie, jamon serrano and guacamole for starter...

Salmon with dill sauce and broccoli for main...

And lemon cheesecake with dark chocolate and cream for puds.

And saw the new year in from the balcony...

Happy New Year! x

2009-01-01T17:31:00.005Z

Ever since I heard about the Botanical Gardens 'Cosmovitral' I have wanted to take Jim there.

So, on Wednesday we got the bus from DF to Toluca... and it is even more amazing than I could have imagined.

The building -which looks onto the city's main plaza- was created as a market in the 1930s, and then converted into a botanical garden in the 1980s.

There are stunning art deco stained-glass windows on all four walls, and along the ceiling.

The coloured light falling on the tropical plants makes it feel like a surreal, magical world.

The atmosphere is really still and the air is fresh and wet.

I find the combinations of colours incredible- so inspiring, and the designs are so dynamic, so full of movement.

It reminds me of so many different things, but mainly, of course, the murals that I saw at the Poliforum.

Seeing the design-work and plants presented as one joint work is incredible.

AND there is even a coffee machine, which is almost as good as if there were a real cafe!

A view taken from the churchyard of the colourful houses in the distance.

The church and the fine art museum.

Outside the theatre.

2009-01-01T17:23:00.007Z

This was the view from the window when I woke up in Nante on Sunday morning.

Doña Theadora brought chicken and bean Tlacoyos for us for breakfast, and we headed to the community centre again for the workshop.

Jim headed off with his camera again, and took these pictures.

The cloud was coming in very fast, so Jim and I began our journey back at mid-day, with a pack-up from the cafe in Tenango where we always eat.

Market day in Tenango was fascinating - such a lot of people, such a bustle- I've never seen it before.

With no official taxis expected, we headed back to Tulancingo with a friend of one of the collectivo drivers- in a beaten-up black mean machine- and relieved to have made it in one piece, we got the bus back to DF.

2009-01-01T17:10:00.005Z

On Saturday, Jim, Charlotte and I went to Tenango so that Charlotte and I could continue the embroidery workshops in the remote village of Nante.

After one metrobus, two metros, a bus, a taxi and a very crowded 'collectivo' taxi we finally arrived in Nante.

While we were working, Jim went off exploring and took these amazing photos of the landscape and the tiny village itself.

We were staying in a little out house, which belongs to Doña Theadora's cousin.

It is very rural - you reach the building by walking down a steep, muddy path, behind the community centre, passing chickens and donkeys.

There is an outside sink in which to wash, and a toilet that flushes with buckets of water.

Despite the mouse scurrying around, and the fact that we only ate biscuits for dinner - I had a very peaceful nights sleep.

2009-01-01T17:02:00.001Z

On Friday I took Jim to Coyoacan Market to sample the incredible Tostados.

Here we are eating Cochinita Pibil.

2009-01-01T17:00:00.004Z

Father Christmas finally found me on Christmas Night (coincidentally, just after Jim arrived).

Happy Christmas, everyone - I hope you all have a wonderful time.

2008-12-29T21:54:00.001Z

Christmas Eve is the main event here in Mexico, and I was lucky enough to be invited to spend the evening with the family that Charlotte lives with.

Above is the delicious starter (lentils and brie with lettuce and dressing).

Sophie's dad is German, Pablos's Dad is French and Ana their mother is Mexican, so it was a very international christmas!

They gave me these gorgeous little figures made out of Onyx - the same volcanic material that was used to make the library windows in CU.

After the main course - pork with french beans - Charlotte made crepes with apple sauce.

It was a wonderful night - I was made to feel very welcome.

2008-12-26T02:40:00.001Z

Pau's dad invited us to his workshop for his christmas party.

He makes prosthetics, so the workshop is fascinating.

There was wonderful food- mole, tinga, arroz and tortillas.

...And traditional Mexican music.

Working from home on Tuesday was very peaceful, with Zeta keeping me company on the chair next to mine...

...And this lunch on the balcony cooked by Ana.

On Wednesday we had a mini-fiesta at the Taller for Pau's birthday.

Senora Guille made Flan and Katy made Cheesecake.

2008-12-26T02:18:00.004Z

Erin and Charlotte were very excited to be going on this week's Penelope Club Field Trip:

Hermillo and his wife Rosy invited us to Tenancingo to see how the Rebozo scarves that we are using in the collections are woven.

This is the first stage, where lengths of the cotton are dyed and stretched across the courtyard to dry.

Some areas are left without dye to create a pattern. Here, the dyed and dried cotton is being stripped with a knife, ready to be woven.

All the staff were having a party to celebrate the Virgin of Guadalupe's day.

(There is a shrine there at the back of the courtyard.)

The cotton is then threaded onto the loom, in a mind-bogglingly complex way!

This is a rebozo being woven. It is very physical work, using movement in both the arms and legs.

And of course it all ended with Tequila, Tamales and Atole, and the late bus back to DF.

2008-12-26T02:10:00.003Z

Saturday morning:

I looked out from the balcony to see this Mass being held next to the bus stop opposite the flat.

12:30pm Spanish Class with Arturo.

2008-12-13T16:38:00.010Z

Behind this door is the 1947 home and studio (and now museum) of architect Luis Barragan, in Colonia Tacubaya. (No.12 Calle General Francisco Ramirez.)

Throughout the design project, I have used photographs of the Barragan House as my inspiration for colour.

So, imagine how excited I was when the curators said that we could use the house as the location for our collection preview photoshoot!

We hired a professional photographer, but I had the chance to take some snaps of the house while we were exploring...

Super-tailor Erin.

Paulina, Augosto and I.

These shutters are a signature Barragan design.

And... a real life Albers. My day was complete.

I have never been in such a calm, serene space before (except obviously our house in Woodlesford!)

The house is so peaceful: lit by natural light flooding through the windows.

2008-12-13T16:32:00.003Z

On Saturday Charlotte and I went to the Zona Rosa to take a look at the Plaza del Angel antiques market.

We stopped on the way for coffee and bisquets at Bisquets Obregon , a famous chain cafe.

I didn't know that Carlos Merida had made a series of designs called 'Mexican Regional Dress'.

I could not believe it when I saw this in the market: 26 original silkscreen prints documenting the most significant indigenous clothing.

The vivid colours are incredible - surely it belongs in a museum!

The seller let me take a photo of every page... here are some of my favorites.

(Yours to buy for only 15,000 pesos / 700 pounds...)

After the market we went to help one of Charlotte friends prepare a sale of scarves made by a cooperative in Chiapas.

The scarves were wonderful, but the hot punch was delicious: finally it is starting to feel like christmas!

2008-11-29T22:47:00.002Z

...And also, a little note to say thank you to the MicMacs, Scott Tim's Mate, Graeme Maureen & Niall, and The Wallace for braving this new-fangled technology with your lovely comments... xxx

2008-11-29T22:14:00.003Z

This is what a conference looks like in Mexico City!

Low lights, elegant furniture, free drinks and a view of the whole of DF. That's the speakers platform on the right, with the lamp.

On Wednesday we went to a conference on the 28th floor of the Torre Latino. It was the second in a series of talks called 'Pase Usted'. Each night 10 people are invited to speak on a specific theme for 6 minutes and 40 seconds.

The first one was called 'Bicentenario' and was about proposals for the bicentenary celebrations of Mexico's independence.

The second was called 'Sustentabilidad' and delegates was talking mainly about the environment, consumerism, but one speaker, a Mexican composer, spoke about how to sustain standards in music and there was a performance of a piece called 'The Coloured-in Cow' by an opera singer and cellist.

Carla, my boss at the studio was speaking about the work we are doing with the communities, and the business model that she has developed.

The incredible view... the room had floor to ceiling windows on all four sides.

2008-11-29T21:50:00.006Z

On Friday night Pau, Erin, Charlotte and I went to Garibaldi to celebrate Saint Cecilia's day.

She's the Patron Saint of Musicians, so the Plaza where the Mariachis play was the place to be...

We went to 'La Hermosa Hortensia'-above- a pulqueria close to the Plaza, although the pulque didn't go down very well amid certain rumors about cows and the fermentation process.

The Mariachis play when someone requests (and of course, pays for) a song.

They are excellent musicians, and also sing and dance. The music is so uplifting and their enthusiasm and playfulness is infectious.

Apparently, it is traditional for a relative who is very old, and knows that the end is in sight to be taken to see the Mariachis to re-live their memories by listening to music from their past. We saw a very old man, struggling to stand up, the pleasure visible on his face as they played for him. (He even had a little-and rather nimble- jig.)

Thank you to Pau for letting me use her photos of the night.

2008-11-26T13:09:00.004Z

On Sunday - as the first field trip of the Penelope Club - we headed to The Camino Real Hotel to track down a weaving by Anni Albers.

We also wanted to see the building because we thought it had been designed by Luis Barragan, the architect whose work I am referencing as part of my research for the textile design project I'm doing here.

As it turned out, the Anni Albers weaving had been lost in transit some years ago, and the building was in fact designed by Ricardo Legorreta, one of Barragan's students! But... it is a fantastic building.

The Consierge gave us a tour of the building, and showed us a couple of rooms.

Fantastic colours and light.

2008-11-26T13:05:00.001Z

On Sunday the lovely Charlotte came over to the flat to teach me how to embroider in the Tenango style.

The women of Tenango have shown me how to do the stitch, but there isn't really enough time to sit and practice with them.

Charlotte is (seriously) a master-needleworker from Paris. (Lesage, Balenciaga, Chanel...) So I'm definitely in safe hands!

Ana is leaning to knit, so we had a very crafty afternoon at what is now called the Penelope* Club-we are hoping that it will be a regular event!

*Those of you who (unlike me) know their greek mythology, will get the weaving references.

2008-11-26T02:12:00.002Z

Studio space update - You can see I've settled in!

2008-11-26T02:05:00.002Z

This is the view from the Castillo de Chapultepec, looking across the park and towards the skyscrapers of the city.

Mexican presidents used to live in the castle, so it is rather grand.

Will and Lizzy will recognise this statue: Monumento a los Niños Heroes.

That's the Paseo de Reforma beyond.

The castle itself is very peaceful and elegant.

Over on the right hand side is the lake where we went paddle-boating.

How wonderful to see it all from such a different perspective.

2008-11-26T02:01:00.003Z

This knitted bus is a traveling artist's studio! (It would be a perfect studio for Ruthie!)

It is parked on the Plaza Luis Cabrera, opposite the hotel where Lizzy and Will stayed.

(I went back to take some more photos the following day, and someone had set fire to the knitting on one side of the bus - such a shame.)

2008-11-15T16:17:00.003Z

After the Templo Mayor we wandered around the centro historico, and stumbled across this beautiful little church called el Templo de San Felipe Neri 'La Profesa' between Avenida Franciso I Madero and Avenida 5 de Mayo. It reminded me a lot of the main cathedral.

Not far from there, next to the Torre Latinoamericana is the Iglesia y Ex-Covento de San Francisco.

The gorgeous blue tiled building is the Sanborns (a big chain of restaurants) called the 'Casa de los Azulejos'.

(There's a mural inside it by Orozco.)

2008-11-15T02:44:00.003Z

Friday: Thought we'd better balance the beach with a bit of culture...

Back in the city at the Templo Mayor - The group of Aztec temples uncovered by archaeologists in the centre of DF.

Favourites from the Templo Mayor Museum.

2008-11-15T02:35:00.003Z

View from the hotel balcony at Hotel Villa Nivarna, Pie de la Cuesta.

Reading the Livingetc christmas special in a Hammock.

Iced strawberries by the pool.

2008-11-15T02:13:00.006Z

On Tuesday morning we got the bus from Tasqueña to... ACAPULCO

5 hours of dramatic scenery - here are some photos from the bus.

2008-11-15T02:04:00.006Z

Trajineras on the embarcaderos at the floating gardens of Xochimilco.

We chose the Parque Ecologico which takes you along the canals that run through the farm land.

Fishermen catching carp.

Stunning, and so peaceful.

(Photo by Jim Macqueen.)

2008-11-15T01:40:00.009Z

Jim arrived on Saturday night and on Sunday morning we headed to La Condesa for breakfast and a walk around the Parque Mexico.

Couldn't resist snapping this bus at the park.

Then we headed to the Mercado Jamaica: the best Mexican market so far...

Meats, spices, every type of vegetable and exotic fruit I could imagine.

Above at the front are piles of mole poblano (mexican sauce made of chile, spices and chocolate.)

The market is famous for flowers.

I've never seen a fish bowl in a bouquet...

Huge piñatas in the street outside the market.

2008-11-08T05:17:00.004Z

On Wednesday we went to Nanthe (the next village-about an hour away) to meet some of the other artisans that we will be working with.

Outside the community centre in Nanthe- a boiling hot day, and beautiful lush scenery.

Headed back to D.F in the afternoon. Not a bad view from the bus.

2008-11-08T05:12:00.002Z

Another fantastic meal in Tenango on Monday night, in this little tienda close to the main plaza.

Paulina and Katy eating quesadillas.

Sope number 2, with frijoles y queso.

Did I mention how much I love Mexican Food?

2008-11-08T04:57:00.006Z

Back to Tenango on Monday to continue with the embroidery sampling.

Carla took me to their Cemetery to see how they decorate it for Dia de Muertos. It was breathtaking. (And I was invited to take photographs.)

We were invited to lunch by one of the Artisans. She made us five different types of Tamales, Pan de Muertos (Day of the dead bread), pollo con mole (chocolate sauce) and sent us home with a block of real cacao (real chocolate).

2008-11-08T04:11:00.017Z

Coyoacan (where we went for the birthday dinner) used to be a village outside D.F, but it has been engulfed by the city.

It still feels like a village though; very different than the city itself. (Frida Kahlo's house is in Coyoacan.)

After dinner we went into the main plaza to see the Day of the Dead offerings. On the 1st and 2nd of November, (and then for the whole week after) lost loved ones are celebrated and honoured with offerings such as their favorite drink, chocolate, cigarettes, and papeles picados, all lit by candles on a table, usually alongside their photo. Most people have these 'ofrendas' in their houses, but there are also incredibly beautiful ofrendas all over the city. We saw them in front of churches, on pavements, in the middle of the street and in markets.

It has taken me quite a long time to begin to get to grips with the concept of El Dia de Muertos.

It has merged a little bit with Halloween here. It is not a mournful event, it's a celebration. People dress up (in Halloween costumes) and take great pride in creating beautiful ofrendas. There were street performers and music, and hundreds of candles.

There are a lot of skulls: chocolate / sugar ones, paper mache ones -alebrijes- but people are accustomed to them, and the associations are not so dark or morbid as they are for us.

Back to the restaurant to call a taxi. (They've got a little ofrenda there on the left.)

Happy Birthday Lizzy Gray!

On Sunday morning we headed to the Zocalo to see more Dia de Muertos Ofrendas.

I took them to the Catedral Metropolitana because the work on the Altar del Perdon has been completed.

Of course it was very busy.

Rays of light coming in through the windows.

The Palacio de Bellas Artes.

...and inside.

One of the ofrendas in the artisan market.

2008-11-08T03:54:00.020Z

Look who I found at the airport on Thursday night!

Having been awake for 24 hours, Liz and Will managed to keep their eyes open long enough to try their first tacos at La Califa en la Condesa.

Happy Halloween! On Friday morning I went with Carla to her children's pre-school fancy dress party. (My working day is varied.)

I went dressed as a last-minute Russian Fighter Pilot, but as editor of this blog I choose to omit that photo. Carla is a robot, and Grandma is a devil, and Cristobal is NOT an octopus - he's a spider - and Laima is a Flamenco dancer.

Saturday: A long lunch in Polanco - that's fried cactus 'nopales' on the right.

Then we went to the Bosque de Chapultepec, for a paddle boat ride.

It doesn't come naturally to everyone.

(I wouldn't usually, but - we really did laugh until we cried.)

Walking back to their hotel - La Casa de la Condesa - on Plaza Luis Cabrera.

Getting ready for Lizzy's (early) birthday dinner on Saturday night.

Liz is doing Karaoke with Freddy Mercury on the TV, and Will is wearing his Lucha Libre mask from Friday night.

(Just in case it isn't obvious.)

Dinner at Los Danzantes in Coyoacan.

Like a fine wine...

2008-11-08T03:48:00.005Z

Erin and I found an indoor market right across the road from the studio.

Its called Mercado Chapultapec.

Look at the Piñatas hanging above the stall- ready for Halloween.

There are lots of new places for us to eat lunch.

We've been having 'comida corriente' for 30 pesos- soup, and then rice or spaghetti with tortillas, and then a main dish.

At this particular stall, they also show films on a big screen at the front.

There are also 'brujas' (which translates as 'witch' but isn't as impolite as it sounds) who have stalls laden with herbs, and smoking incense.

I bought eucalyptus leaves to steam in a bowl of hot water for my cold.

Flowers ready for el Dia de Muertos.

2008-11-08T03:43:00.002Z

Then... I couldn't resist the Artisan Market at Balderas. I bought these baskets...

...a purchase which I am justifying by showing you the above exhibition at the Museo de Arte Popular.

And some tiles, to lay in front of the new fireplace in the Woodlesford.

2008-10-28T16:21:00.016Z

Later in the day I took the Metro to Juarez and walked along Independencia to the Museo de Arte Popular - the folk art museum.

These enormous creatures guard the doors.

The museum buys and displays contemporary examples of Artisan crafts / folk art.

(I have spoken to some people who think that the selection of objects is ill-informed -that the curators don't have sufficient understanding of the crafts to choose good examples-, but I really loved it.)

Looking into the main patio within the museum.

All museum trips should be punctuated with Coffee Stops.

Arbol de los Artesanos - Jose Alfonso Soterio Fernandez.

When we work with the Tenango artisans they often use their finger print instead of signing forms, so this mural (which shows the names of the patrons of the museum) reminded me of the first few days that I spent in Tenango.

They hold workshops ('Tallers') at the museum, teaching artisan crafts like how to make alebrijes gigantes - the huge paper mache figures like the ones outside the museum doors.

You can also see another mural made of childrens' hand-prints on the right.

These cut-out sheets of paper (papel picado) were decorating every shop and home leading up to El Dia de Muertos. These examples in the museum are cut really beautifully. (And such fantastic colours.)

Favourite pieces from the jewelry collection.

...And of course, Tenangos.

There was a special exhibition of alebrijes for El Dia de Muertos.

Traditional fiesta head-dresses.

The most beautiful bag in the shop... hand embroidered.

2008-10-28T16:09:00.012Z

On Saturday I went exploring the area where I live.

Whenever I wander around I'm always so surprised and uplifted by the combinations of colours and the architecture.

(And I love spotting roof-top gardens.)

I can't get used to seeing cactus plants everywhere.

This is my favourite: looking towards Insurgentes.

2008-10-28T16:07:00.003Z

Sweet home Alabama.

This is my building from the other side of the street.

And that's the World Trade Centre in the background.

2008-10-20T04:50:00.007+01:00

On Wednesday Ana and I went to the Museo Tamayo for the opening of a new exhibition called 'Apariciones fantasmales: Arte despues de la movimiento chicano'.

I love art galleries at night - you can't beat the atmosphere. There was a band playing outside, and complementary fizzy pop.

The Tamayo is close to the Museum of Anthropology, on the Paseo de Reforma.

People don't use Holograms enough in contemporary art.

(I'll go back again to see the rest of the collection.)

Afterwards we went for sushi in la Roma and on to a gig at Malva on Durango.

2008-10-20T03:47:00.014+01:00

Top 6 day-to-day things about D.F - Part One

1. Opening the door on to this in the mornings...

The Parque de Pennsylvania, right outside the apartment.

2. There are basketball courts all over the city, and the ones by our flat are always busy, no matter what time of day it is... and all sorts of different people use them: families, teams, the Scouts, Pensioners.

3. The Metrobus. (But only in the mornings.)

I take the Metrobus to work and back every day. The first two sets of doors are for women, children and oldies only - an elegant form of discrimination. In the mornings you can let a couple full buses go by, and then get on one that is almost empty. They have their own lane, so we speed past the traffic jams.

(During the evening the Metrobus is a Total Nightmare. Getting on is one thing, but once it is full getting off is almost impossible, and always traumatic. There's nothing quite like getting stuck in the closing doors. Twice.)

4. The reflections in the skyscrapers. The sun is always so bright that the skyscrapers reflect the other buildings like mirrors.

5. The Juice Men.

This is the juice stand where I get juice every morning.

Sometimes I get Guava and Orange Juice, sometimes Strawberry and Milk. (I'm working towards Mango.)

They cut and juice everything in front of you, so the flavors are amazing.

And we always have a little chat.

6. Take-away Tacos. (Best eaten in front of the TV.)

2008-10-20T03:28:00.003+01:00

Wednesday was a very good day... Katy's mum has a dessert-making business, and she sent us some samples to try...

Here we have pay de queso con zarzamora (blackberry cheesecake) - absolutely delicious.

2008-10-12T19:44:00.016+01:00

I spent Saturday morning at the Catedral Metropolitana in the centre of town.

'Altar de los Reyes' - the main altar.

The view from the Altar de los Reyes- this is where the congregation sit when there's a mass.

Families waiting to baptise their children in the side church- the children dressed in beautiful traditional gowns.

There were lots of tiny, peaceful chapels to the side of the main 'Altar de los Reyes'. Each decorated in a different way, with its own character: Some had candles, ribbons and paintings, some had golden panels like the one above.

Although the Cathedral is very Spanish in style, there are some bits that feel very Mexican, like these geometric stain glass windows, and the ribbons below.

Women write notes on ribbons, attach a lock, and tie them in front of the statue of Saint Ramon because they believe that he will stop 'gossip about them from doing the rounds in their village'.

Renovations to the Altar of Forgiveness (Alter del Perdon).

I finally found the Central Post Office, and it was worth the search... almost as ornate as the Cathedral, and equally as golden.
In spite of the size and the elaborate decoration within the building, there is only one tiny window selling stamps.

On Sunday morning - armed with better directions, I returned to CU to look for the Merida Wall Panel.
There was a big game on in the CU Stadium, and lines of Riot Police stopping everyone from passing by. They were so baffled by my explanation that I was trying to find a public art sculpture, and my little map on a post-it note, that they broke their line and let me through.
1 hour of walking along Calle Insurgentes - with gorgeous plants and tiny, brightly coloured birds in the verge- I finally found it.

And it was absolutely worth the wait.

2008-10-05T02:09:00.021+01:00

I've been researching (and falling in love with) the work of artist Carlos Merida.
I think that his designs are incredible... he was influenced by cubism, and drew these crazy characters, in bright blocks of colour. The ones that I have been looking at were designed as panels for social housing blocks.

Here are some little sketches I made of the figures within his murals.
I love them - they're funny human / warrior / angel characters.

Heard a rumour that there is a Merida wall panel in the Cuidad Universitaria: UNAM's main campus in the south of the city, so yesterday we headed there to track it down.

The campus has a very different vibe to the rest of DF: The air smells like woodland, it is very green and open.
Its like a university film-set: there are groups of students hanging out learning martial arts, having guitar lessons, and juggling.

The university is an autonomy, so it has its own police, laws, infrastructure etc.
We took one of the free buses around the campus - a high speed adventure: clinging on for dear life, bracing ourselves for each corner.
The driver oblivious: turning up the volume on the radio playing 'Tell me more' from the Grease soundtrack. Only in Mexico.

Hysterical and exhausted. (We didn't find the wall panel)

The main library - by Juan O'Gormon- the bricks above the windows on the ground floor are actually thin slices of Volcanic rock called Onyx... they let in the light like stained glass windows:

Incredible from the inside. Almost like mother of pearl.

The main admin offices.

David Alfaro Siguerios, the same muralist that worked on the Polyforum.

MUCA: the Museo Universitario de Ciencias y Arte.
Exhibition of the work of Daniel Guzman.

Art here seems to have a much wider audience...

This piece is called 'infinite sadness'.

2008-10-02T04:46:00.006+01:00

Tamales! * (pasta de maiz untada en hoja de platano)

My absolute favorite Mexican food: it is a corn dough filled with chicken or vegetables with incredible sauces (like the nut sauce today) and cooked in a corn or banana leaf. Unwrapped, and ready to eat below...

(*No comments please from those of you who know that I have been suffering this weekend courtesy of Montezume's revenge.)

2008-10-02T04:03:00.009+01:00

I love Tenango, too.

We took a coach to Tulancingo this time (about 2 hours) and then a taxi on to Tenango (another 1 1/2 hours). This is one of the local buses that take us from the village square to the community centre. People get on and off selling food. You can also catch a communal taxi that picks up anyone that flags it down, and stops wherever you need. (The best views are from the back of the pick-up vans though-a mode of transport that is not British Council approved.)

Some greens for Helen Gray x

The view walking to the cafe for lunch (Advertising PRI- one of the political parties.)

Thread heaven... what bliss.

2008-10-02T03:44:00.003+01:00

The light in the very early morning...
The light throughout the day changes everything: each time you look at the colours or the landscape they look different.

2008-10-02T03:12:00.010+01:00

Back in the community again this week...incredibly hot, sunny days.
Tenango style murals in the village square.
I wonder who designed these - and why and when they were put in the square?

I finally met with the professor on Monday.
His work is different from many of the designs available commercially:
He draws fantastical creatures based on ancient local myths, some from the bible and some narrating the lives and work of the people.

These creatures were embroidered by his wife.

My favorites! Work in progress: you can see the pencil lines drawn by the professor.

You can tell true artistry by the quality of the wrong side...

2008-10-02T03:08:00.001+01:00

This little slice of heaven is my new studio space at Flora. (I'm getting my new desk next week.)

2008-09-22T04:30:00.008+01:00

Sunday 21st September

This afternoon Ana threw a party so that I could meet all of her friends (any excuse!)
She cooked delicious Colombian food.

My culinary education continues...

Erin is on the right hand side (with the black bob)

And the pudding was queso con bocadillo (guayaba) y obleas y arequipe (dulce de leche colombiano)

Cooking for your friends is such a wonderful gesture.
We were all putty in her hands.

2008-09-21T07:19:00.004+01:00

Friday morning.

The community centre and beyond.

On the way back to DF.
Tenango de Doria in the distance.

2008-09-21T06:46:00.008+01:00

Tenango de Doria

Even the Graffiti is in the style of a Tenango embroidery - look at the yellow bird on the back wall of the court.

Artworks advertising the Tenango shop

First workshop with some of the Artisans

Breathtaking views...
On top of the world.

The Hotel... Sharing with Kati, Regina and Dr. House

2008-09-21T06:28:00.010+01:00

Wednesday morning 7 am... First trip to the Community!

View from the van, leaving the city.
In the distance: the pyramids.

Stopping for breakfast in Tulancingo

On the road...

High in the mountains of Tenango: the clouds descend.

Incredible prehistoric plants

View from the community centre in Tenango

A little glimpse of the traditional Tenango embroideries

Low clouds as night begins to fall.

2008-09-21T06:24:00.003+01:00

Monday night: Independence Day celebrations.
The view from the roof party in La Roma.

Tuesday: A lovely night at Xel-ha in La Condesa with Emma and Ell -
We had Papadzules, Panuchos and Cochinita Pibil

2008-09-15T08:00:00.002+01:00

Happy Independence Day!

Local kids celebrating in advance on Friday, Colonia Roma near the studio.

2008-09-14T17:56:00.002+01:00

Independence Day is nearly upon us...
Brace yourselves.

2008-09-14T15:44:00.013+01:00

The Weekend!
Took the metro to Auditorio

Finally; the international recognition that it deserves.

Walking along the Paseo de la Reforma is such a pleasure.
It is an elegant, tree-lined street that runs through the Bosque de Chapultepec Park.
This morning it really hit me how lucky I am to be here.

The Lago de Chapultepec - I've got my eye on a paddle boat ride.

I spent the morning at the Museo de Arte Moderno.
This is The First Tooth by Jean Charlot 1936.

This is a photo by Hermanos Mayo 1952, and the painted interpretation of it: The Revolution Gives Back Culture by David Alfaro Sigueiros.

The Mexico 68 exhibition (also at the Museo de Arte Moderno) looking at the branding strategy that was developed when Mexico held the olympic games.

I love these enormous sculpures which were made to look like they were paper mache.

Some examples of the graphic design developed for the promo material.

The exhibition was particularly interesting because it documents the design of motifs and lettering that are still in use today on the metro in DF.

Outside the Museo de Antropologia: a monument to the Holy Island Fishing Trip.

Paseo de la Reforma.

2008-09-14T02:46:00.012+01:00

Wow.
The Museo Nacional de Antropolgia is incredible.
And enormous.
I spent the afternoon looking at one half of the Ethnography Hall - which focuses on indigenous artisan crafts -mainly textiles and decorative arts.
I am in awe of Mexico, and the weight of its history.

Intricately embroidered Huipils.
Each piece is so complex, so visually stunning and oh, the colours.

There are a lot of full-scale village scene mock-ups, like this one of a church.
The exhibitions are completely engaging, perhaps this is why the museum was packed with people of all ages, all scribbling notes and taking photos.

And gorgeous playful designs.
Here are some of my favourites...

2008-09-12T03:40:00.004+01:00

Look at those colours!
Walking to the autobus this morning... the fruit and veg market that runs alongside the Park outside my apartment.

2008-09-12T03:10:00.003+01:00

Wednesday night: 192 magazine party at El Contramar in Colonia Roma. Gorgeous lights...

Kicking out time - 3am: very sore feet and up again for work at 7 am!

2008-09-07T03:34:00.002+01:00

'Los Danzantes'- Jardin del Centenario, Coyoacan

Oh, its all about the food again- I'm having a 'Cheesecake de Queso de Cabra y maracuya' and a coffee
(And the flag is a special addition for the coming Independence Day celebrations)

2008-09-07T03:08:00.004+01:00

Tostadas in the market at Coyoacan. I had 'Cochinita Pibil' and 'Agua de Jamaica'

In the market again - mini-pinata. (It's a party game: they are filled with sweets and the children hang them up and bash them open blindfolded)

A building in Coyoacan - the bricks are volcanic rock!

2008-09-07T02:20:00.005+01:00

The weekend! -the view from the balcony during breakfast

Just around the corner from the apartment... the PolyforumSiqueiros

Mexican Muralism...started in 1920 by Jose Vasconcelos

Theatre interior covered in a mural: 'The journey of Mankind' by David Alfaro Siqueiros

Amazing - and the seating area of the auditorium revolves 360!

2008-09-02T07:20:00.001+01:00

Ruthie - look familiar!? x

2008-09-02T07:12:00.002+01:00

My first taco

My second taco!

My new friend, Zeta

Zeta and Dakota

The famous sillas de acapulcos - made to order in orange!

2008-09-02T07:04:00.002+01:00

My bedroom

The lounge

Here are some pictures of the apartment that I will be calling home.

There is a large sunny lounge with a balcony at either end. The view from my bedroom looks on to the main street, and the view from the back looks onto a small park.

2008-09-02T05:17:00.002+01:00

I have arrived!

2008-08-20T12:46:00.002+01:00

Hooray! The patchwork cushion that I have been working on is finally finished. Before I made it I had no idea that it would take so long or that I would get so much satisfaction from finishing it. The pattern is from 'Traditional Patchwork Patterns' by Carol Belanger Grafton and is called 'Interlaced Blocks'. I am always torn between traditional and contemporary aesthetics - I really love seeing them both in the same space.